Simple Delights: Shui Kee Coffee in Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan – A Nostalgic Coffee Aroma Hidden in the Market

When looking for Shui Kee Coffee in Sheung Wan, be mentally prepared—you’ll have to pass through a market, a mixed-use one at that. The lower level sells fresh produce, so the smell can be quite strong, which some people might find unpleasant. But really, it’s just the typical market scent. Upstairs, you’ll find cooked food stalls, including places that resemble stir-fry restaurants. It’s actually quite interesting to have a coffee shop in such a setting, but for the locals, it’s nothing unusual—it’s just a breakfast spot.

Finding Shui Kee Coffee isn’t difficult. Just take a walk around, and you’ll spot it—it’s the one with a packed entrance and a queue of people waiting. It’s safe to say it’s the busiest spot in the market (though calling it a “shop” feels a bit odd). By 1 or 2 PM, when most of the market is winding down, Shui Kee is still bustling with activity.

The staff barely have time to serve or chat with customers, so it’s best to find your own seat, grab a menu yourself, decide what to order, and then go directly to the counter to place your order. If you wait for them to come to you, you’ll be waiting forever. The combination of too many customers, too few staff, and a small kitchen means they’re constantly overwhelmed. Be prepared to wait, and if you’re in a hurry, this might not be the place for you.

We were already too full to order their famous French toast, which seemed to be on almost every table. Instead, we just got drinks. Their bottles for iced milk tea and iced yin yang (coffee-tea mix) were quite interesting. The iced drinks had a rich and flavorful taste. Also, there’s a high chance you’ll have to share a table with strangers, so be ready for that. And most importantly—don’t have any expectations for the environment!