Miaoli’s Gongguan—not Taipei’s Gongguan! Don’t head to Taipei Gongguan expecting to find Yucheng Stinky Tofu, because you definitely won’t. Yucheng Stinky Tofu has already been featured on many TV food shows as well as YouTube channels and blogs. As someone who returns to visit family in Gongguan every year yet irresponsibly never managed to try it over all these decades, I finally found myself missing out one time too many.
There are just too many factors at play—timing not lining up, not being able to sneak out during meal hours, and all the inconveniences of rural life. Most times I’d spot it only after I’d already eaten. After countless misses, I finally mustered the courage (and convinced my relatives) to go—and at last, I tried it. Why does getting yourself some stinky tofu have to be so complicated?
Even when there doesn’t look like a long line, you still have to wait. Many locals call ahead to reserve their tofu before picking it up. They’ve figured out that waiting on-site takes ages. You call to order, and the last three digits of your phone number become your pickup ticket; those who queue in person get a different ticket series.
There are plenty of seats for dining in, but most people actually take their orders to go. There’s even an extra sauce station where you can help yourself!
One order is five pieces of stinky tofu, each pierced and then drizzled with sauce; chili is added only if you ask. If you like spice, definitely add it—it makes the flavor pop. The tofu is crispy on the outside and soft inside; it’s best eaten hot. The pickled cabbage on the side is a bit mild. Overall, without extra chili it’s not overwhelmingly strong in flavor. Because the interior is very tender, some people might not prefer its texture, but we found it delicious. If you’re curious, give it a try—you won’t know if it’s your thing until you taste it!
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